Bengal has an intriguing French connection

Nestled along the Hooghly River is a tiny town just 35 kilometres from Kolkata that is steeped in history and is definitely worth exploring.

A gentle breeze welcomes you as you step on the Strand. The beautiful promenade along the Hooghly River is a lovely stretch and across it stands a row of beautiful French colonial buildings.  Wait, French? Yes, you read it right! It is a general perception for most that in India the French existed only in Pondicherry. In fact this quaint place called Chandernagore was and still is, the La petit French—the little France—in West Bengal and is only 19 square kilometres in total area. Chandernagore might be a small town but its historical significance cannot be trifled with.

A town with many names
The name of the town itself has many derivatives. Some say that the bank of the river forms the shape of the moon—chandra—inBengali; others say it is named after the oldest temple of Goddess Chandi. According to some it was believed to be a centre for selling sandal (chandan). The best way to explore this lovely town is to walk it.

The advent of the French

Chandernagore became a French colony in 1673, wherein they established their trading banks, and it became a permanent French settlement by 1688. After the 1757 war with the British the town changed hands a couple of times between the British and the French. However, from 1816 it remained with France till 1950. Although Chandernagore was a French colony, it had a strong convergence of the French and Bengali cultures as many Bengali merchants flourished and played an important role in development of the town.

Institute de Chandernagore – Dupleix Palace
In 1730, Joseph François Dupleix was appointed governor of Chandernagore. It was during his time that the town became the main center of commerce in Bengal. The Fort d’Orléans, was also built during his time. Today the reminiscence of Dupleix’s glorious years in Chandernagore is housed in the Institute de Chandernagore that stands in a grand manner located on the Strand commanding a view of the Hooghly River. It is a French colonial building with spacious verandahs enveloping the entire building supported by columns. A flight of steps take you to the entrance to the museum that showcases artefacts, old photographs and Dupleix’s personal belongings. You can spend a good few hours strolling in the garden or sit in the verandah and enjoy the scenic view.

Every building has a story
Built in 1904, the Patal Bari (underground house) on the Strand is worth a visit as its lowest floor is submerged in the river. Some very prominent personalities have resided in this house during their visit to the town including Rabindranath Tagore. A clock given by Joseph Daumain sits on the tower facing the promenade reminding everyone of the times that this town has seen. The other grand building on this stretch is the sub-divisional court of Chandernagore. However, it was not always a court. It was the Hotel de Paris. You could very well imagine the spacious verandahs and gardenslit up for the typical Parisian evening soirees. The road off the Strand takes you to Sacred Heart Church. This Roman Catholic Church was built around 1875 and has beautiful stained glass paintings. As you continue walking past the church you come across shops, and old houses competing with new buildings.

The temple that withstood cannon fire
This town played a pivotal role in the famous Battle of Plassey in 1757 when Robert Clive destroyed the Fort de Orleans along with houses and places of worship. There are few buildings that still stand as mute witnesses to Clive’s cannon balls. The temple that still exists from that time is the Nandodulal temple. Built in 1740, it is believed to be the largest dui chala (double-sloped roof) temple in Bengal. Located on a picturesque landscape with a little pond on the rear, the wall still carries theimprint of Clive’s cannon balls.

Refuge for Indian freedom fighters
As you peel one layer of history of this town you unravel another layer beneath.  Since Chandernagore was a French colony during the same time when Calcutta was under the British, many freedom fighters from British Bengaltook refuge in French Bengal. The most famous name is of Sri Aurobindo Ghosh. The house where Sri Aurobindo went into hiding and used the space to make bombs still stands. In fact many brave hearts such as Kanailala Dutt and Rajbihari Ghosh that fought for the Indian freedom against the British hailed from this town. You can visit the Prabartak Ashram that was established by Motilal Roy. It used to be a safe haven for freedom fighters.One should not miss the Laldighi on the Grand Trunk road, the cemetery across it, and the old library building not very far from there.

Local flavour
Although most of Chandernagore’s identity comes from its French association, but one that continues to have the local Bengali flavour is the Jagaddharti Puja. It is celebrated with much fervor. After a heavy duty history tour one should not miss the lovely evenings at Strand. It looks like the entire town is on the promenade. With shopping carts and ferries on either side of the Strand selling trinkets, street food, icecream carts. Music floating from the Rabindra Bhawan across the street and the sight of old people discussing politics and Tagore on the same breath is quiet a sight, not to be missed by anyone. Albeit, officially Chandernagore merged with West Bengal and became part of India in 1951, the vestiges of the Liberty gate on the south of the town acts as a reminder of the French connection with the inscription sayingLiberté, égalité, fraternité—Liberty, equality, fraternity—the three pillars of the French revolution. We tip the hat for those lovely words that continue to give us hope.